DAY NINE: Eureka!

Greetings from Louisville, Kentucky! (We went a little too far...) We've made our first major goal - finding Exit Zero! (Photographic proof to follow tomorrow.) We're here. We've checked in with the family, we have a room in the "granny cottage" adjacent to the historical family home at 314, and we're off the road for the next couple days while much of America goes off traveling for Labor Day weekend. Not us -- we've arrived.

The day started in St. Louis, with a return visit to Tiffany's Diner. The still very onery Janet was not at all impressed that we came back for the pork steak. "You said you were gonna'..." she said, and you got the feeling that yesterday's oral agreement would be considered a legally binding contract in time-worn diners across the country.

Today, we were treated to an American diner classic - pork steak with gravy, mashed potatoes similarly attired, and a vegetable side. (Colin went for corn; Emily picked green beans.) The dish came with two slices of white bread, whipped butter spread, and jam. Janet has a standing offer: If you can't cut your pork steak with only your fork, it's on her. That's how tender the pork steak is. (Janet confided she's never had to pay off.) And it was true; you had a knife, but you didn't need a knife to enjoy the rich pork goodness, smothered in sauce and gravy, of this middle America diner classic dish.

We also struck up a conversation with Terri, a local driver and long-time regular at Tiffany's, who made fun of Emily for being a "Valley Girl." (Terri had some Orange County in her background, so that was cool...) Terri brought with her the tragic news that all Steak and Shake locations were now smoke-free. This was most definitely not the case at Tiffany's, where at the single row of diner counter seats, ashtrays outnumbered salt and pepper shakers. Terri was both a kick and a hoot, her byplay with Janet filled with the faux-contempt between customer and cook, rooted in a deep affection.

Later, we found out that the regulars at Tiffany's had hired an Elvis impersonator to perform for Janet on her birthday earlier this year. In between tending to other customers and refilling our beverages, Janet told us of dreams - of working three more years, paying off debts, retiring and vacationing to Graceland, taking care of elderly, arthritic dogs... a wonderful, caring, nurturing and most genuine and authentic American voice.

If it's not obvious, we love Janet.

Rockstar/lawyer Robynn gave us one last tour around the St. Louis area, then it was back on the road. A four-hour blast from St. Louis to Louisville ... and yet again, Colin and Emily blew the time zone thing, arriving an hour later than they had promised because of this "you'd think they'd eventually learn" miscalculation. Sigh...

Tonight - Emily had her first (but not last) visit to White Castle, we managed to sneak in a preview shopping visit to Ear X-tacy Records, and we finished the night at Heine Brothers Coffee. But the brothers are shutting down for the night, and so are we. More to come over the
Labor Day weekend, but posting might be a little light, as we're committed to a bunch of family reunion type activities. We're headed back on the road, and back for home, on Tuesday. How the time does fly...

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